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As we left San Miguel de Allende for Mexico City, Darren took us on a route that went under those blue and white streamers and past Alicia's hotel.

==Wednesday==

On the way to San Miguel de Allende, we stopped in Irapuato for lunch.

We woke up facing our longest day yet: 300 miles of mainland Mexico, from Mazatlán to Guadalajara.

 The morning of leaving La Paz, I met Darren at a local faux-Starbucks, and then we bought some fruit from a street vendor for the first time.

I got an enormous cup (about a liter) of pineapple, mango, and coconut. It turns out that fresh coconut isn’t that great — I would not make this mistake again.

We got a little lost leaving the city, which I’m sure will be a recurring experience. We tear-assed all the way to Cabo San Lucas, just 100 miles of very good, wide freeway with little traffic, some construction (with occasional forays into oncoming lanes), and a wind coming off the Pacific just to our right. We stopped in Todos Santos, known as a gringo town, and we got lunch. I got Mexican-inspired sushi, which was quite good and makes sense given their proclivity for seafood and rice and sauces, but Darren won lunch with his crab quesadilla, which was more crab than tortilla or cheese. People really know the meaning of value here.

 That night we went out to El Squid Roe, where waitresses skilled in tic-tac-toe played me until they won and I had to buy jello shots, which they fed to me. I don’t remember much else about that night.

 

We took off from Guerrero Negro very happy to see the town in our taillights.

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