We took off from Guerrero Negro very happy to see the town in our taillights.

Our goal was Lareto, more than 200mi off. We raced through the desert down to San Ignacio for lunch and a quick look at the church before moving on to Santa RosalĂ­a which has a really old church with steel supports.

The steamy heat on the Gulf of California coast made us down water and sorbet, and we had an empanada of what looked like chocolate but what was really caramel. A nice policewoman watched our bikes, to boot.

We then passed through Mulegé and did a pro forma five minute loop through it before moving on. I got another bee sting, this time on my hand, and Darren carefully removed it with a Leatherman. We got to Lareto and noticed that the recession was still hitting it, with half-finished construction and closed stores everywhere. In Guerrero Negro someone told us to visit the famous McLulu's tacos, which had been there forever, but they were shut down, sadly. We had seafood tacos elsewhere, which were summarily delicious.

Laretos sun-lit church

The next morning we woke to the well-lit church behind our room and we blasted through the desert for another few hundred miles to La Paz. The hotel we stumbled upon turned out to be staffed and maybe owned by two young twenty-something women and it was filled with "art", which looked like a lot of old stuff all stuck together, but it was still charming and they had a sweet cat named "Obama" and the room came with two shots of tequila for each of us (but not the cat).


We each fell asleep early from all the riding, but I awoke at midnight to the sound of American rock music. I traced the source and found a club having a band battle. I chilled in back, drinking a ballena ("whale", 32oz beer). Then Omar, the midget lawyer of La Paz, offered me some of his unlabelled beer, which of course I drank. We could barely communicate, but we rocked out. When the bands finished, his cousin "El Burro" (a bassist/marine biologist) rolled through and we kept partying till 3am when Omar passed out. We spent an hour and a half walking one block, somehow, and when they finally took off I grabbed a 4:30am hot dog and passed out.