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==Day One: Through the border to Peru==

We dropped off the pavement on the edge of town early that day, anticipating the border and further. After all, we had less than 100 miles to go.



The road turned out to be very curvy, however, and even though we could go fast on the straights, there were no straights to be found. Doing motocross tricks to speed around corners wasn't an option, as we (1) lacked motocross bikes, (2) lacked motocross skills, and (3) had little room for error on the narrow mountain roads.

We didn't make it too far before we hit a roadblock, apparently crews were working to fix a landslide and the road was only open three times per day, an hour at a time, with gaps of six to eight hours in between. But we were lucky, only having to wait an hour. When we finally made to the landslide, we saw excavators high up, digging the earth out from under themselves. It didn't seem like a wise way to go about the job, but who was I to question Peruvian culture?

The road was difficult and seemed to take forever, causing us to average less than 20 mph. Later we would run into some friends from the Stahlratte who would inform us that they hit the same road in the rain, at least one bike going down in the mud at each turn. By the time we arrived at the border, several hours later, we were tired with night approaching. The guidebook only mentioned one place anywhere near us, a comfy resort that we figured we had earned. But first, the border, which turned out to be totally tranquilo (chill). In fact, it was so uneventful there that everyone was transfixed by two horses, one trying to have sex and the other scampering off. (Boy, haven't we all been there!) We started the immigration process just in time, as electricity had just been restored, and in the hour it took to get us through, the horses had made their way all over the place, the people of the tiny town transfixed by the mare's gentle but persistence resistance and the stallion's floppy horse dong. Men were still giving each other sly nods as we made dust to the resort, tired and ready for bed. But when we discovered the hotel to be full of construction workers, they directed us to another hotel whose rooms smelled like chemicals and mold. Dinner that night was at the only restaurant, which had only one dish: chicken and rice with tasty sauce. The tasty sauce made all the difference and is the secret to Peruvian cuisine.




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