==Day 3: Kuelap==
We made a day trip out to the ancient fortress ruins of Kuelap, but first we would run into Andy and Bina, friends of ours from the Stahlratte.
It was not unusual to run into such friends, as we "motorcycle adventurers" tended to hit the same highlights and stand out among the crowd, but still it was always a pleasure to see old friends.
We were going to remove our panniers, with their heavy tools and spare parts, for the two-hour dirt-road ride to Kuelap, but I had a feeling that we should take them anyway. An hour later, I would be vindicated when my clutch cable snapped and the fix was quickly completed with our heavy tools and spare parts.
To get to Kuelap, we had to travel along high, narrow mountain roads, the drop-offs more sheer than anything we had yet seen, and the mountains more majestic than ever. The ride was harrowing, I hugged the cliff-side of the road even though it was the wrong side, preferring to risk running head-on into traffic over getting run off the road into oblivion. I consoled myself that at least it was not wet.
Kuelap itself was an amazing sight, a difficult-to-approach fortress with great lines of sight for miles around. We were the only tourists there and didn't spend much time, as we had to account for the two-hour ride back and the fact that, oh yeah, I did not have headlamps (all four, on two separate circuits, were malfunctioning in one way or another). On the way back, it rained, making the trip even more harrowing, and when we finally reached pavement it was night, so I rode by the light of my flashing turn signal, following Darren. The next morning, I got up early and dealt with my headlamp issue, but not before celebrating another day of not dying with our friend Andy.
Next time: After hours and hours of riding, the road simply stopped